UV Sterilizers For Tanks

[hudson21222]

I had seen something called

a UV sterolizer and wanted to know more about them. And figure this would be the place to ask, and

find out who use them, and if I should have one in my 120 Gal. Tank?

[fishandfire]

UV sterilizers are used

to help control algae, green water, and diseases. I have never used one. Disease (knock on wood)

has not been a problem for me. Green water typically comes if you have a natural tank--dirt,

driftwood, live plants. Most African tanks don't have these. I use Bristlenose Plecos to

control algae. The only people that I know that use these are the ones that have salt tanks.

[Le0]

Their are PROS and CONS

to use a UV Sterilizer:
The UV sterilizer is a tool used by many aquarists to combat and kill

harmful, waterborne bacteria, viruses, fungi, and small protozoans, which may turn a beautiful and

peaceful aquarium into a deadly nightmare.
The UV unit also helps control algae blooms by

killing waterborne algae.

To a true Aquarius, a lost fish symbolizes failure and an

opportunity for improvement. I consulted a local reliable pet store for techniques on how to avoid

common fish diseases. The UV sterilizer was mentioned during the inquiry, but initially discounted

because of cost (15 watt - $119). I researched my options and eventually concluded that the UV

sterilizer would help me provide superior water conditions for my aquarium inhabitants.

The UV sterilizer was rushed home and immediately hooked up to my Fluval 403 canister filter. I

witnessed positive results in only 48 hours of the initial hook up. My aquarium water looked

flawless - crystal clear. The other fish looked rejuvenated and lively. I immediately thought to

myself, "Gee that UV sterilizer is the best thing since sliced bread. My fish headaches are

over." Well, yes and no.

Yes, the UV sterilizer has provided months of clear and

somewhat safe water conditions for my inhabitants, but after six months I have to take apart the

whole unit and change the bulb and clean it! The disease headache turned into a cleaning

headache.
The UV bulb loses its effectiveness -kill ratio- after six months and must be

replaced. Due to its exposure to water, biological slime builds up on the bulb surface, which

greatly reduces the efficiency of the unit.
The "kill" efficiency of the UV

sterilizer depends upon several variables listed below:

The available energy (wattage)

of the bulb (4, 8, 15, 30 and 50 watts). • Age of the bulb (greater than 6 months). • The species

and individual characteristics (age and size) of the microorganisms.
Temperature of the bulb

and system (106 degrees F). • Distance between the bulb and the target organism - (2 inches).

Presence of slime and other biological or mineral deposits on the bulb surface. • Duration

and intensity of exposure, flow rate of water through the unit (25 to 30 gallons per hour per

watt).

Placement of the unit. Connect the unit to the end of the filter line, before

the water returns to the tank. This will provide maximum sterilization.

Aside from the

above variables, there are some more factors to be aware of when utilizing the UV unit. When

changing the bulb, never look directly at the light when the unit is turned on. This may cause

permanent damage to eye tissue. Also, always unplug the unit prior to cleanings and to water

changes. The bulb will heat up if it is in operation in air instead of water. If the unit is

submerged in water while it is still hot after or during operation in air, it may break and release

electrodes in the water. This could be a highly shocking experience!

Overall, the UV

sterilizer is helping me to maintain a healthy and happy environment for my inhabitants by killing

most harmful microorganisms. The UV unit may be frustrating during maintenance, but then again so

are fish deaths. Keep in mind the factors required for success, and make sure to use caution when

handling the unit. Remember to consult your local pet stores when deciding on types of UV

sterilizers. Fish keeping can be a rewarding experience when success is achieved, and the UV

sterilizer can help the true aquarist reach a consistent level of success.

Not only does

it kill these things but it will also kill all bacteria in your tank, even the good bacteria you

want to keep in your tank to keep it cycling. There is a lot of new evidence as to the benefits of

UV sterilization for ALL fish, and many myths have been dispelled such as “UV Sterilizers

destroying beneficial nitrifying bacteria”. Many articles I have read state that a UV is not that

beneficial to an established aquarium as a healthy aquarium depends on beneficial bacteria

typically growing on media in your filter which neutralize ammonia. Unfortunately the problem with

this statement is beneficial bacteria belongs in the filter, not in the open water. Also this is

great for advanced aquarists who are not adding fish and have a healthy. UV Sterilizer 24/7 will

weaken the immune system in fish in part by creating a sterile environment.

There are

two common UVC emitting lamps types currently employed: the low pressure and the medium pressure

mercury lamp.

The low pressure lamp emits its radiant energy between 250-260 NM which is

where UV Sterilization is most effective with a UV efficiency of about 38%.

The medium

pressure lamp emits its radiant energy between 250 and 350 with many energy spikes in between (most

notably around 320 which is more in the UV range) with a UV efficiency around 7%.

The

Coralife Turbo Twist is a good unit, however the purchase of this unit over another unit based on

this configuration is a waste of the extra cost in my experience. I have achieved as good a results

and better with also well made Via Aqua Terminator UV Sterilizers or Custom UV Sterilizers.

Another over rated UV part is the quartz sleeve (although not useless). Even though I use

and recommend Via Aqua Terminator UV Sterilizers which have these, I have found little difference

in units with and without them (the exception being cold water applications such as Trout). The

quartz sleeve also needs to be cleaned upon changing the bulbs every six months to a year and

sometimes more often.

The new Wiper models that I have seen also do a poor job of

removing calcium and other buildup and again are not worth the extra $. If you have a quartz

sleeve make sure and clean it with acetone when you change your bulb to truly have a clean quartz

sleeve (unlike wipers which are one of the biggest gimmicks to hit UV Sterilization in recent years

IMO). The rubber gasket that is pulled across the quartz sleeve simply does not remove all the

deposits and sometimes leave its own “trail of debris”. These also are easily torn or broken with

regular use. Bottom line, DO NOT spend the extra money!

Other poor UV attributes are

the low quality electronic ballasts that many low end companies now use that are often only good

for 6 months.

I hope some of this information is helpful and will make up your mind to

add one or not

[jriggs256]

WOW! Amazing

writeup! You make me want to go out and buy one now! Thanks for clarifying!

[Le0]

<!--quoteo(post=9473:date=Apr

23 2008, 09:29 PM:name=jriggs256)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (jriggs256 @ Apr 23

2008, 09:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> (index.php?act=findpost&pid=9473)</div><div

class='quotemain'>WOW! Amazing writeup! You make me want to go out and buy

one now! Thanks for clarifying!</div>

lol your

welcome

[fishmaven]

<!--fonto:Comic Sans

MS--><span style="font-family:Comic Sans MS">Several other things…

The main reason to have a UV sterilizer on an aquarium - to cut down on the possibility

that a sick fish will infect his other tank mates. A UV doesn't prevent disease, it

helps to control the spread of disease.

For a 120 gallon tank you'd need

something in the 24"-36" range. You'd want to drive the UV with clean filtered water

at a slow return rate. Effectively this is called the "kill rate." The longer the water

is exposed to the bulb within the tube, the better the water coming out of the UV.

Algae

isn't always represented by green water. Sometimes it's water that just isn't

completely clear. A good example would be water straight from the tap vs water through a Pur™

or Brita™ system. I don't like to "see" my water. I prefer it to appear that my

fish are "swimming in air." Most aquariums will appear clear looking front to back with a

background on the tank. A tougher challenge would be an aquarium with no background viewed from

either front or back. Tougher yet… looking end to end. Try placing a newspaper on one end and

reading it from the other. It basically boils down to your budget. If you're trying to save

money to pay for your fish, don't spend the money on a UV. If you were setting up an aquarium

for someone else and a few bucks more wouldn't even be noticed, add the UV, you'll never

hear complaints. Colors are much more vibrant in a clear tank. When discussing freshwater

aquariums vs saltwater UVs are thought to be more important on saltwater although it's for the

same reasons I've just mentioned. It's easier to justify on a saltwater aquarium because

everything is usually more expensive.

Yes, UVs can be a pain when you do maintenance.

Changing the oil in your car's a pain too. Most never think of maintenance hassles when

purchasing filters or even light fixtures. The lightbulbs on your aquarium need to be changed at

least once a year but few do so.

When purchasing a UV unit it's important to choose

a brand that has parts available locally. OR if buying from the web, it's important that you

purchase the extra parts at that time so you don't have to "search" for parts you

need immediately when the bulb dies. You'll probably need the O-rings too. If you have a

favorite store and they use an UV unit on a show tank, ask them to tell you about it. Ask why they

chose this brand over other brands. Ask why they chose this unit over other units. Ask about the

maintenance they do on the unit. How do they determine that the bulbs is even "on"? Do

they stock parts for this or other units?

Since I mentioned saving money, and we're

talking about a NEW tank, I'd never recommend skimping on the filter, the heater, or the

lightbulbs. I'd buy a filter that either doesn't break or is easy to repair. I'd shoot

to move 10X the capacity of the tank. I wouldn't put a $15 heater on a tank with $50

fish. AND I'd buy the bulbs that show the colors I want brought out in the fish I plan to

purchase.
Dan

</span>

[sneakypete]

When you read over these

two responses from Dan and Leo, you quickly begin to realize how valuable the ACA forum truely is.

The information volunteered here is beyond exceptional and far more thoughtful and detailed then

what you would find on other forums IMHO.

You may not get the number of posts you see

on other forums, but when it comes to quality info and people lending a hand, this forum rocks.

pete

[hudson21222]

<!--quoteo

(post=9488:date=Apr 24 2008, 12:50 PM:name=sneakypete)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE

(sneakypete @ Apr 24 2008, 12:50 PM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=9488"><

{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'>When you read over these two

responses from Dan and Leo, you quickly begin to realize how valuable the ACA forum truely is. The

information volunteered here is beyond exceptional and far more thoughtful and detailed then what

you would find on other forums IMHO.

You may not get the number of posts you see on

other forums, but when it comes to quality info and people lending a hand, this forum rocks.

pete</div>

And makes me very Thankful they took

the time to explain, and give me the answeres I wanted. I really learned way more then I first

thought I would get for the question. Thanks So much Leo, and Dan, and everyone. ACA really rocks,

I am proud to be a member. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

By the way I printed the info.

I have found keeping a binder of information for present use is a wonderful thing.

[sneakypete]

Surprisingly, after

those in depth responses, I still have a question. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blink.gif

Does a UV

filter have to be plumbed to the return valve of a canister filter (clean water) or can it be

hooked up some other way? If so, how would you do it - with a low flow powerhead?

The

reason I'm asking is that I would suspect the outflow from a big filter - like and Eheim 2260

(thanks Dan) - may not provide enough time for the UV to do its trick. If a powerhead would work,

what should the flow rate be for a 24-36 range on a 125 gallon tank?

pete

[fishmaven]

<!--quoteo

(post=9490:date=Apr 24 2008, 12:37 PM:name=sneakypete)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE

(sneakypete @ Apr 24 2008, 12:37 PM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=9490"><

{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'>… Does a UV filter have to be

plumbed to the return valve of a canister filter (clean water) or can it be hooked up some other

way? If so, how would you do it - with a low flow powerhead?
… If a powerhead would work, what

should the flow rate be for a 24-36 range on a 125 gallon tank?</div><!--QuoteEEnd-

->
<span style="font-family:Comic Sans MS">If you have

a second smaller cannister, like an Eheim 2228 or 2229 or even the workhorse 2217, I'd use one

of those. As to actual flow rate, UV manufacturers rate their units differently. Some rate the kill

rate with a new bulb. The best manufacturers give you figures on the unit with a bulb about to go

out. Obviously, it'd be nice to know how effective the UV will be until the bulb dies. You

really should go with the flow suggested by the manufacturer. As a guess I'd say around 100-125

gph, possibly a little stronger.

Here's a link where Tom and Nevin Bailey, cichlid

importers from a previous era (1960s and 70s), discuss the purchase of equipment for a saltwater

aquarium. <http://www.petfishtalk.com/interviews/salt...r_equipment.asx (http://www.petfishtalk.com/interviews/saltwater/equipment/saltwater_equipment.asx)> Tom and Nevin

still operate a tropical fish wholesale business in San Diego.

I've never been able

to run an outside device properly from a powerhead in the tank. There's almost always a problem

that makes me want to throw the thing across the room. I'd only use a powerhead to drive the UV

if I had a sump. I'd place the powerhead in the return reservoir (clean water) and run a return

hose to the surface of the tank. You'd need to drill a small hole to keep from overflowing the

sump in case of power outages on each of the return tubes from the sump.
Dan<!--fontc--

></span>

[sneakypete]

Thanks Dan. I did go

with the Eheim 2229 so I guess that's a possibility. The UV isn't at the top of my list

right now but I might add one in the future.

Pete